Once part of a bigger national park, Tsavo West is now its own, entity. Dominated by lava flows and volcanic cones, it’s a dramatic setting that still feels off the typical tourist radar. This large German-owned camp in the heart of the park offers a choice of 27 tents, canvas suites, and self-catering cottages all arced round watering holes where giraffe and antelope come to drink. Although the size is daunting, the benefits of a bigger camp include a decent spa and pool. Go on guided bush walks to the nearby Mzima Springs, equipped with an underwater viewing tank for watching hippos and crocodiles below the surface. Proximity to the Indian Ocean (about a four-hour drive away) invites a bush-and-beach combination.

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